These appeared in Around and About from Spring 2007 spread over a number of parts. They were written by Edith Lumley for Croft Women's Institute.

About three and a half miles south of Darlington situ­ated pleasantly on both banks of the River Tees stands our village CROFT SPA. It is a picturesque little village of about 350 souls whose lives are centred round Croft's beautiful ancient church St Peter's or round the Method­ist Church & Village Hall. The two sections of the village are joined by the Tees Bridge, a majestic bridge which in May 1926 was listed as a National monument and is now under the nation's wing.

Croft residents are proud of this `grand old bridge', one of the oldest & finest in the North of England dating from 1356. It has seven beautiful Gothic arches which gradually increase in height in the centre of the curve. The earliest structure was no doubt formed of the same red sandstone from the river bed from which the church is built. As well as uniting both parts of the village it unites the counties of Durham and Yorkshire. The Duke of Cumberland must have passed over it on his way to Culloden for he left a record that the marshes of Oxen-le-Fields were the worst he had ever travelled. The North Riding of Yorkshire keeps 95 yards two inches of the bridge in repair; Durham repairs 53 yards 2 inches. A sign, County Durham & North Riding each displaying its Coat of Arms, shows the boundary. The blue stone on the third arch on the Durham side marks the boundary line and has this inscription: `Let Durham contribute with the North Riding and the County of Durham in the upkeep in proportion. A.D.1673.' At one time this stone formed part of the pavement. On the op­posite side a little further along is a brown granite slab which people at Croft erected in 1897 to commemorate Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee.Strange things have happened on Croft Bridge. In the 16th Century the Sheriffs of Durham and York met here to deliver prisoners.

The reigning Master of Sockburn Manor about five miles away, used to greet each newly appointed Bishop on this spot. This quaint ceremony should have been performed at Neasham Ford but unfortu­nately river floods often prevented it. The custom was for the Lord of Sockburn to hand a sword to the Bishop saying "With this Falchion the Champion Conyers slew the worm, dragon or fiery serpent which destroyed man, woman and child." In memory of this the reigning King gave him the Manor of Sockburn on condition that the sword should be offered to each new Bishop when he entered the county.On receiving the sword he immediately handed it back to the owner wishing him health and long life at Sockburn Manor. In 1826 this ceremony took place for the last time when the falchion was presented to the Bishop Van Mildert the last of the Prince Bishops. (hasn't this ceremony been revived and if so when did this happen? Does the modern ceremony follow the same procedure?)Croft Bridge also holds the story of the time when Jonathan Backhouse went by post chaise to London to bring gold to meet a run that had been planned on his bank in Darlington. On the way back a wheel came off the coach on Croft Bridge and the banker completed the journey with the gold heaped up in one corner to balance the coach. Mrs Lloyd Pease (deceased) was the owner of a print of this incident.

At the South end of the bridge stands the ancient Church, a Crown Living dedicated to Saint Peter dating from 1090. Here we find relics of the past which show that Croft has its roots deeply embedded in antiquity. Romans, Britons, Saxons, Normans, Tudors all leave traces of their connec­tions with the Church. Many restorations have taken place down the centuries. the last being in the 19th Century. Like the bridge it was built of red sandstone from the river bed. The main entrance is a fine semi-circular archway with stone seats picturesque with roses in summer, adding beauty to the low battlemented tower. The interior of the Church is full of interest. The Chaytor Chapel on the right as the Church is entered, has a very fine screen and a mas­sive tomb in memory of Richard Clervaux 1490. Close to the entrance to the Chapel is the grotesque figure of the `River God' carved in the stone on the wall. In the North aisle a carved oak staircase leads to the raised canopied unique pew once occupied by the Milbankes of Halnaby Hall. The hourglass on the wall next to the pulpit was intro­duced in the reign of Queen Elizabeth 1. Close to the pulpit is a Squint Window with one directly opposite from which alms were received. The pulpit replacing one of the 18th century was the gift of the Revd. J. M. Marshall M.A. Rec­tor, and his sisters, in 1897 in memory of their mother.

Close to the Church is Croft rectory with old world garden. In this garden Lewis Carroll played as a boy. He came to the Rectory as a boy of 11 when his father, the Revd. Charles Dodgson was appointed Rector in 1834. Under the now gnarled acacia tree he wrote his famous `Alice in Wonderland.' The original Alice was the daughter of Henry George Liddell, Dean of Christchurch whose father had livings in County Durham, one of which was at Bishop Auckland. Alice Liddell never visited Croft but Alice Raikes, a young cousin of Lewis Carroll, did. She was one of the inspirers of `Through the Looking Glass.'
Croft Rectory has been converted into flats and its gardens into allotments. (When?) During conversion the floor boards of Lewis Carroll's room were removed and treasures were discovered illustrating his many poems; an embroidered hanky, a glove, a small well-worn shoe, remnants of a child's china tea service and a thimble. Lewis Carroll was educated at Richmond, Rugby and Christ Church, Oxford. His resting place is at Guildford.
An old resident, Grannie Pickersgill who died in 1933 aged 90, told of the wonderful puppet and conjuring shows in his miniature theatre and the weird games he invented and played under the acacia tree on the lawn. Grannie who lived in Lilac Cottage, was a great favourite with Lewis who loved to visit her and enjoy a cup of tea with her famous girdle cakes. The late Miss Elizabeth Joblin, a friend of Grannie had vivid memories of the Dodgsons. She described the quaint sisters of Lewis Carroll, wearing long full skirts like umbrellas. Miss Elizabeth Dodgson was her Sunday school teacher. Everybody loved Archdeacon and Mrs Dodgson who are buried on the North side of the Church. On the centenary of Lewis Carroll - January 1932, a lantern lecture on `Alice in Wonderland' was given by the Rector -Revd. H. Tompkins.

On the main road between the Church and Richmond Road stands the Croft Spa Hotel, once a posting house. It was built in 1808 to accommodate visitors from as far afield as London who came to take the `waters.' About 1714 in the time of Sir William Chaytor, it was discovered that horses suffering from swollen legs and other troubles were cured after drinking from the spring and paddling in the pond. Humans drank the water and found similar relief. On investigation it was found that waters of remarkable healing properties underlay the Spa woods. Sulphur, magnesia and iron water equal to those at Harrogate and the Continent were soon in constant demand. A pump room was built, baths were installed but alas! today the Spa and Baths are closed for want of funds. Now we can only name several wells: Old Well, Sweet Well, Canny Well and Iron Well, the latter still running, its healing waters free to all.
The opening of the Railway was a death blow to the coaching days when Croft was proud of two `Posting Houses'. When the Mail Coach galloped in the guard's shrill horn was heard.. This was a warning to clear the track. Then there was a change of horses and `refreshers' for all post boys and helpers before the `Wellington' and `Tally Ho' again went on their mad gallop of eight to ten miles per hour. In those good old days Croft was a stirring little place. At that time the real prosperity of Croft commenced with the advent of Mr. Thomas Winteringham as landlord of the Spa Hotel. He was an enterprising man and established a stud of `Thoroughbreds' which was famous. Some of the noted sires were Chanticleer, Lord of the Isles, Thornaby, Scottish Chief, Costa and Underhand which was Mr. Winteringham's own horse. Lady Dot and Letty Long - both celebrated matrons, had their home there. As many as 30 hunters were exercised every morning. If all could not be accommodated at the hotel they were billeted at stables in the village.
Approaching the Richmond Road we get a view of the railway viaduct over the River Tees which is of special interest. Mr Swales, a retired railway man, records that this stone bridge had its foundations laid on sheep's wool, thorns and concrete because of the sandy bed. The reason for the abrupt curve on the railway line at Croft, just before the bridge is reached, is due to the fact that no other foundation could be used than that selected. This man's grandfather was a water diviner.

Crossing the bridge from the Yorkshire to the Durham side we reach the part of Croft which is called Hurworth Place; Croft Post Office, Railway Station and Telephone Exchange are situated here. Facing the river are the old cottages, Post Office, Comet Hotel and Tees View Cottages. These stand a little distance from the road and are approached by a short drive. They are always a mystery to strangers; some think they are a fortress of some kind, others think they are alms houses or a hospital. They are adorned with models of a lion, a unicorn and an eagle. To the village they are known as Menagerie Row.
They were built by Sir Ernest Cassell. In the background and also built by Sir Ernest is Croft House, then the home of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Thompson Maxwell. In 1878 Sir Ernest married their daughter Annette. During the Great War one daring airman cut off the eagle's head. Later it was cemented on so neatly that a stranger could not tell such a thing had happened.
Near the cottages is Croft Post Office occupying one of the houses on the river front. Next we come to the Comet Hotel which takes its name from the famous Shorthorn `Comet' bred by Charles Colling and sold for 1,000 guineas. A signboard depicting the famous `Comet' used to hang over the entrance to the hotel but it was removed in 1959. Colling lived in Monkend Hall where he died in 1836.
Quite near is the old brickyard, now dismantled, with four small bungalows on part of the site. It is interesting to know that Hurworth Rectory was built from bricks made here.
Mr. Jim Suggett, who lived in one of the bungalows, helped to carry these bricks onto the `drying tables' where they dried in the sun before being put into the kilns. He and his mate received 1/for every 1,000 bricks they moved (that was 6d each). They could move from 4,000 to 5,000 bricks a day, working from 3 a.m. to 7 p.m.

At the left hand side of the Durham end of the bridge was the Blacksmith's Shop. In 1871 Robert and Betty Dixon lived there and at a later date their two sons, John and Tommy Dixon. Later the shop was worked by Mr T. Longstaff, nephew of John and Tommy. Part of the blacksmith's shop was a small inn known as "The Pig and Whistle." Pig is taken from the work "Piga" meaning "a girl" and whistle is an incorrect pronunciation of "wassail." Therefore, the correct meaning of the name of the ancient signboard was "A Lass and a Glass." The children no longer stand at the door to watch the sparks fly and hear the anvil ring. It was demolished in 1939.

The Toll House was next to the Smithy's shop and was partly washed away by one of the big floods, and with it a substantial sum of money. The Toll Gate extended right across the road. There was a wicket gate for pedestrians who passed over the bridge free of charge. Traffic and all kinds of animals were paid for. Mr and Mrs Raisebeck kept the Toll House for 12 months, leaving in January 1865. It was demolished in 1871.

Walking up the bank past where the Old Toll House stood we pass the Joiner's Shop of Mr G Richardson, who has been in business 60 years. Further on we see the familiar face of Mr Raw in his Grocer's shop, where he, with his father - the late Mr Frank Raw - have carried on for 63 years.

A stone's throw from here we reach the Railway Station, Croft Spa. There have been many changes since the Croft branch of the Stockton and Darlington Railway was first opened on October 27th 1829, the station at that time being where the coal depot is now, and Croft was the terminus on the line. A long procession of coaches, each drawn by one horse and crowded with passengers carrying flags and banners, was followed by a train of wagons filled with coals. This line is called "the old line."

The first "Station" was a wooden hut about 9ft x 6ft with just enough room for a small sloping desk, a stool, two or three books, a ticket rack, a small metal stove and the fussy important gentleman, Mr Watson, the stationmaster. The Company gave a luncheon at the Croft Spa Hotel when Mr Newburn, their solicitor, told those present that in a few years a railway would be made to London when travelling would be so fast that people would be able to travel one day and return the next, and there would be no need to send Coft Spa water to London in flasks to be sold at 1/- per flask. Roars of laughter greeted him, but the prophecy came true.

Mr. George Lumley (the writer's father) was goods agent at Croft 44 years. In his twenties he was a fitting engineer and designed a model engine, the only one of that period, which is now in Darlington Museum. A great musician, he played an ebony and ivory flute. 

The stone flags at the edge of Croft Station platform were originally sleepers before the days of wooden ones. At the time of writing this story (1960) a new railway bridge at the station is in course of construction. This change has been made necessary to cope with the diesel train traffic and to widen the road over the railway for the increase of heavy traffic.

Another interesting resident is Mr. W. Haynes, always known as "Billie." His friendly personality made him popular with yourw, and old. He still lives in the house in Monkend Terrace where he was born in 1879. His mother was born here, and his grand-mother, who took is visitors, was the first tenant. In those days Croft was full of visitors who came to take "the waters." He was christened in Croft Methodist Chapel and has been a lifelong member and is still a Trustee. At the age of 15 he earned 2/6d. per week as a blacksmith in. Darlington. He held a driving licence in 1899 and drove the first car that was in Darlington. In 1900 he joined a cycling club when cycles had solid tyres. He was captain of Croft's second cricket team for 12 years, for the best "batting and bowling average." 

The River Tees can be very angry at times. It is an awe-inspiring sight to see the river in spate. It is like a huge wall of water coming to meet you and before you realise what has happened this wall of water has spread out with a roar like a heavy peel of thunder. Old residents remember many disastrous floods. During one flood several pillars of the bridge were damaged and a local tax was levied to have them repaired. Another flood washed away the Turnpike house with £50 toll money.

Another entered the Church and carried away the Church gates. Two walls were washed away, one at the entrance to Richmond Road, the other directly opposite.
 

In 1881 another disastrous flood reached a height shown by a black brick in the wall close to Mrs. Hopper's window. This was painted the day after the flood by Bob Byers and Arthur Ness, then 20 years old. The custom of thus marking the height has been handed down. In that flood the waters swamped the coal depot and the neighbouring cottages. Mr. & Mrs. Ness and family were marooned. To relieve the anxiety of the villagers they periodically rang the large house bell to let people know that all was well. Horses were removed from the Spa hotel. Huge boulders hurtled down smashing the railings by the riverside. The long beam which forms the seat inside the railings by the bridge was washed there in the 1895 flood from `Step ends' between Langton and Middleton - in - Teesdale.

In 1895 the Tees was frozen for six weeks. It was possible to skate from Croft to Yarm, several miles distant. The late Mr. J. Wilson Mr. Harry Garrington and Mr. J. Hall skated several miles in the opposite direction, to Piercebridge. Eve-ryone enjoyed the skating, moonlight nights enhanced the enjoyment and when there was no moon candlelight gave the scene a fairy - tale touch.

Long ago there was a ford across the river, reached by the grassy slopes at the South end of Mr. Ness's garden wall. Cattle passed over here to escape the toll. Another ford is said to have existed where the bridge now stands.

Long ago, Croft Depot was the only place for miles around where coal could be obtained. In those days men came from the Dales with donkeys laden with `lead' to export to other places and returned home with bags of coal carried by the donkeys. Often the `queue' reached from the bridge to the Depot-and they frequently arrived during the night so great was the rush...They were called Jackass Colliers. There is a petrifying well in the Coal Depot yard in the recess at the end of the coal cellars.

Miss Raisebeck lived in one of the old Posting Houses-the `Sign of the Black Bull' on the Yorkshire side of the river just past the Richmond Road. This was one of the resting places for the donkeys, while the men went inside for a `refresher`. One of the little square window panes had the following lines on it: -

"A diamond, a pencil, and a pane of glass,
is pen and pencil for every idle ass."

Another pane had this inscription: -

"Jonathan Nelson of Portsmouth 1810."

Unfortunately in 1934 this pane was broken and replaced by ordinary glass. The house is now demolished.

This old resident also spoke of Corpse Walks, one of which was across Monkend Hill from a hind's house across the glebe land. The Rector, Mr Villiers, about 1874 received the Toll of 1/- being the owner of the land over which the Corpse was carried.

During the time of Archdeacon Dodgson (1843-1868) the musical part of the church service was provided by five villagers, Robert Forster (crescendo), Jacky Coates and son Willie (forte with graces and pianissimo), Jake Hopper (shrill staccato) and Bob Wilson (double forte). They rattled the church rafters in those days and regular churchgoers accepted this as correct church music. The tune was `pitched' by Jake Hopper with the aid of a `pitch pipe' or `whistle', an extraordinary wind instrument in shape rather like a chair leg and made of mahogany. This is now in the possession of Mr. Charles Featherstone's grand-daughter.

In Reverend Law's time (1868) the sexton sat in a square pew just inside the church door. `Amen Clark' and `Dog Man' sat on the right, the latter with a long pole to scare the dogs away. `Cuckoo' Jack Robinson was a character of the 1870's who got his name through mimicking this bird. When dying, at the age of 90, he was still in possession of a perfect set of teeth!